COOKING TIP: Browning Meat

When browning meat, the surface should be blotted dry. Moisture makes the meat steam rather than sear, so you loose the rich, brown, seared crust.

THINGS I LIKE: Home Made Sausage

Ever since I was a kid, I have always enjoyed eating sausages. I would eat  breakfast links or patties with eggs in the morning for breakfast or breakfast patties on a toasted muffin or on a rye bread sandwich for lunch or just a tasty snack. Best of all, however, I love Italian sausages Italian link sausages with fried peppers and onions on an Italian or French bread ( my favorite sandwich) , Italian sausage meat stuffed mushrooms, Italian sausage meat incorporated into sauce for pasta, etc.I had always purchased Italian sausage from the supermarket to use in my cooking because I thought it would be hard to make. In investigating this I found that, with minor modifications, it really is easy to make or, if you want to take a little more time and invest in some equipment, it is a little more time consuming but still, relatively, easy to make.The recipe I follow ismy modification of one from "Bruce Aidell's Complete Sausage Book, Bruce Aideles and Denis Kelly,  Ten Speed Press, 2002 p.85

INGREDIENTS
3 pounds of store - bought ground pork*
1/2 C dry red wine
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp fennel seeds, toasted
1 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp dried oregano
1/8 tsp ground allspice
1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

PREPARATION
Place all ingredients in a bowl. Mix well using your hands. Shape into patties. sausage may be refrigerated for up, to three days or frozen for two months.

* The original, recipe calls for 3 pounds of pork butt plus 3/4 pounds of pork back fat. which you grind in a meat grinder using a 3/4 inch plate. Further, one could stuff the  sausage meat  into casings to make links.
Obviously. one needs a meat grinder and stuffing equipment  to do these things. I have both of these  but find that the store - bought ground pork meat, while I am sure, is certainly not as fully flavorful as the meat mixture recommended, provides a perfectly acceptable substitute and making patties rather than stuffing the meat into casings is simpler, faster and more accessible to the average home cook.

NOTE
The recipe above can be made with ground chicken or turkey, also, and can be modified with the addition of red pepper flakes, diced Mozzarella cheese, grated  Parmesan or Romano cheese. diced, oil packed dried tomatoes, other herbs or spices, eg. fresh or dried Basil or any other ingredient you feel will enhance the flavor of the sausage to suit your palate.

FOOD HISTORY: The Turkey

Turkeys, native to North and South America, belong to the genus, Meleagris. They evolved over 11 million years ago. The wild Turkey of North America is Meleagris galloparvis, while Meleagris ocellata is native to South America and is the ancestor of most contemporary turkeys. The Aztecs name for these birds was Xuehxolotl. These wild birds roamed  free all over ancient North and South America. The Aztec, Mayan and native American cultures used them in their lives and ceremonies. The Aztecs, who domesticated these birds between 10 BC and 10 AD,  used their meat and eggs for food and their feathers for arrows, headdresses and  necklaces and the Mayans used them in many ritual ceremonies. Native Americans also domesticated some  but  hunted the wild ones for food and hunting pleasure. In the 1550's the Spanish Conquistadors were introduced to this bird, new to them, and brought them back to Spain, where they swiftly became domesticated and used for food. From Spain, they made their way to several countries of Western Europe, including France, Italy and England. The bird from the New World  got it's name "Turkey" from the fact that the Europeans of that time had trade relations with the important  international trade center of Constantinople,Turkey where merchants sold goods from Africa and Asia to distributors in Europe. These imported products became known by the nationality of the distributor rather than by the place of their origin;  for example, rugs, even if made in Persia (Iran) but sold in Europe by a Turkish distributor, were called "Turkish" rugs. Thus, a popular edible  bird called  Guinea Hen, originating in Africa but  imported into Europe by Turkish distributors, were called  "Turkey Cocks". Later, their name was shortened just to "Turkey". Because the New World birds resembled these "Turkeys" they were given that name. Curiously, the name of the bird that the Europeans were calling "Turkey" are called "Hindi" in Turkish; short for "the bird from India". The Turks knew that these New World birds were not native to their country and believed that they may have come from  India, since Columbus thought the "New World" he discovered was, in fact, India. The name aside, until the Turkey became available, the European Aristocracy ate Peacock and Pheasant, both having stringy texture. To them, Turkey flesh was much preferred. In 1570, Turkey was served at the wedding feast of Charles IX of France and Turkey became very popular as the bird  to be served for banquets in France. While Europeans still eat turkey, they eat much less than North Americans.  This is due, in large measure, to the migration of the Pilgrims from England to America. Wild Turkeys were introduced, by the Native American Wampanoag tribe, to the Pilgrims when they arrived from England to America in the 1660's.These birds resembled the domesticated, large birds (Turkeys) that were being bred in England. Because of this, the New World birds were called "Turkeys", as well. The abundant population of wild Turkeys became a major food source for the Pilgrims in this new land. In 1621, to celebrate the first successful harvest of the Pilgrim colonies, a "feast" of Thanksgiving was celebrated by the Pilgrims and the Wampanaog tribe. While no direct evidence exists that Turkeys were part of the first Thanksgiving day celebration that took place in 1621, because these birds were a major food source for both the Native Americans and the Pilgrims, they may have been included that day. Thanksgiving Day became an official US holiday on Oct.13, 1863 by proclamation of the US president Abraham Lincoln. It is not clear when the Turkey became the symbol of Thanksgiving day in the US, but the two are now inseparable. In fact, the "official" nickname given by the American people to Thanksgiving is "Turkey Day".

THINGS I LIKE: Peameal (Canadian) Bacon

In a previous post (1/31/14), I wrote about the difference between American style Canadian bacon and the real Canadian bacon (Peameal bacon) and reviewed  the history of Peameal bacon. I have made Peameal bacon many times and it IS very different from what we, in the US, know as Canadian bacon. I find that it is easy to make, much more versatile in usage and, to my taste, significantly more  flavorful than it's American version. The first recipe, below, the one that I follow, uses a dry cure. However, many Peameal bacon aficionados use a wet cure with additional flavoring ingredients so I have included a second recipe using such a cure. It is an adaption from Michael Rhulman's blog: michael@ruhlman.com.

                                   PEAMEAL BACON ( DRY CURE METHOD)

ingredients
1 pork loin
1 1/2 tbsp. Morton's Tender Quick salt/ lb of meat
1 tsp sugar

PREPARATION

Mix salt/sugar and rub into meat. Seal in a zip Lock bag and refrigerate for five days. after curing period, rinse, pat dry and roll in yellow cornmeal. to use, slice, fry and serve with eggs, fry and use for eggs Benedict, fry and eat on a sandwich prepare as a roasted pork loin or use in any why that strikes your culinary fancy.

 RHULMAN'S WET CURE PEAMEAL BACON METHOD

ingredients

 2 - 4 lb pork loin

2 qts water

5 Tbsp Morton's Kosher salt

2 Tbsp sodium nitrate (DC Curing salt)*

1/2 C sugar 5 cloves garlic, crushed

2 Bay leaves

1 large bunch Sage (optional)

7-8 Thyme sprigs (optional)

1 lemon, halved (optional)

PREPARATION

Combine brine ingredients in a pot, bring to a simmer and remove from heat. Allow to cool and refrigerate until cold. Submerge pork loin in the pot of brine or place brine and meat in a large plastic Zip Lock bag. Refrigerate for 72 hours, then remove from brine, rinse, pat dry and refrigerate, uncovered, for 4 - 24 hours. Roll in yellow cornmeal and use as described above.

DC Curing Salt

Butcher and Packer Supply Co.

Madison Heights, MI 48071

248-538-1250



FOOD HISTORY: Oreo Cookies

Oreo cookies, which were introduced by Nabisco in 1912, are one of the most beloved and recognizable cookies in the world. Hydrox cookies, consisting of two ornate chocolate cookies filled with a layer of sweet creme, were introduced by the Sunshine Biscuit Company, earlier, in 1908. The Sunshine Company, of Elmhurst,IL is now owned by The Keebler Company and their Elves. These cookies were an immediate success which caused their competition, Nabisco, to introduce a similar cookie. Nabisco is an abbreviation for the National Biscuit company, formed in 1898, by the amalgamation of several biscuit companies. Nabisco is the company that brought Animal Crackers to the market in 1902. Oreo's were introduced, in 1912, as part of a "trio" of new cookies which included, in addition to the Oreo, "Mother Goose" and "Veronese" biscuits; single layer cookies with creme toppings. While these two cookies fell by the wayside, Oreo's endured and surpassed Hydrox cookies in popularity. How the Advertising Department came up with the name Oreo is not fully known, but the name, officially, became the Oreo Biscuit in 1913. This was changed to the Oreo Sandwich in 1921, Oreo Cream Sandwich in 1948 and the Oreo Chocolate Sandwich cookie in 1975. The original biscuit (cookie) was slightly larger but, otherwise, identical to today's version. Size varied over the years with today's cookie being between the largest and smallest versions. In 1922, Oreos sold for $0.32/lb.( How times have changed!!!) Over 491 billion Oreo's have been sold since  1912.

FOOD TRIVIA: Coffee in Europe

Coffee was introduced into Europe in 1683 when the Turkish army left sacks of coffee behind when they retreated from the gates of Vienna.

THINGS I LIKE: Mixed, Spiced Nuts

Always a good snack, whether alone or with a drink, mixed spiced nuts are delicious and easy to prepare.

INGREDIENTS

2 egg whites
2 C, each, Almonds, Cashews, Walnuts, Pecans
2Tbsp Curry powder
2Tbsp Cumin (toasted and ground)
1tsp, each, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Cayenne, garlic salt
3/4C sugar

DIRECTIONS

Heat over to 250F.

Whip egg whites until well broken up. Add spices and sugar. Mix thoroughly. Add nuts and stir to coat evenly. Spread into an even layer on a Silpat pad or parchment paper in a rimmed cake pan. Bake for 45 minutes. Allow to cool, break into pieces and ENJOY or store in an air-tight container for future use.

FOOD HISTORY: Campbell's Soup

Abraham Anderson was a  tinsmith interested in tin cans as a new food preservation method who opened a small canning company in Camden, NJ in 1860. In 1869, Joseph Campbell, a Philadelphia produce merchant, became Anderson's partner forming The Anderson and Campbell Company. Anderson and Campbell produced canned tomatoes, vegetables, condiments, jellies, mincemeat and soups. Thus, Anderson and Campbell became one of many small canning companies that began in America at that time. Their specialty was Beefsteak tomatoes and the company was best known for canned Beefsteak tomatoes. Because of this, the Beefsteak tomato became the first advertising symbol of the company. However, business differences between the two men led Campbell to buy out Anderson in 1886 and change the name of the company to Joseph Campbell and Company. Campbell was the sole owner until 1882, when he took on three partners; his nephew, Joseph S. Campbell, his son-in-law, Walter S. Spackman and Spackman's friend, Arthur Dorrance, who brought new financing to the company. The company name was changed to Joseph Campbell Preserving Company. In 1896, the company expanded its product line and built a large factory in Camden. A year later, Arthur Dorrance hired his nephew, John T. Dorrance, a chemical engineer and organic chemist and, by 1899, John Dorrance had developed a  process of condensing soup by removing 1/2 of the water from the soup to create a thicker consistency. By halving the water in the canned soup, he reduced the costs of packing, shipping and storage from 30 cents for the typical 32 oz can of non-condensed soup to 10 cents for a 10 oz of condensed soup. Advertising the benefits of soup to consumers and the lower price and easily stored new condensed versions contributed to  the great success of the new condensed soup product. This gave Campbell's the competitive edge over their competitors. In 1905 the company was renamed Joseph Campbell Company. In 1916, the idea of using condensed soups in recipes, rather than just using them as soups, which originated in a cookbook, "Help for the Hostess", added to the popularity of and the utilitarian nature of condensed soup. In fact, Americans use more than 440 millions cans a year in a variety of recipes. The soups rank only behind meat/poultry, pasta and seasonings and spices as the ingredient most used to prepare dinner each year. The most popular soups eaten are tomato  introduced in 1897 and Cream of Mushroom and Chicken Noodle, both introduced in 1934. The Joseph Campbell Company was dissolved, formally, in 1922 and in 1922 a new company, The Campbell Soup Company, reflecting the company's most famous and profitable product was formed. While, at present, the Campbell Soup Company product line consists of more than just soup, it is the world's number one soup maker selling products in 160  countries with principal markets in North America, Australia, Belgium, France and Germany.

FOOD TRIVIA: The Mai Tai Cocktail

The Mai Tai Cocktail, an alcoholic drink based on rum, Curacao and lime juice, was created in 1945 by Victor Bergeron (Trader Vic) at his Oakland, California restaurant, Trader Vic's. When he served his newly created, yet unnamed, drink to friends from Tahiti, they exclaimed, " Maitai roa ae!", which, in Tahitian, means, "out of this world! The best!". Thus, Bergeron's drink acquired it's, now famous  name.

COOKING TIP: Fresh Basil

Now that we are getting into the spring/summer season, a tip about how to store one our of  most loved summer herbs - Basil. Fresh basil keeps better and longer when stored, with stems in water, at room temperature.

FOOD HISTORY: Smorgasbord

Smorgasbord (smorgas, literally "sandwich" and bord, "table") is a Swedish term meaning an abundant buffet meal consisting of several hot and cold dishes from appetizers to desserts, set out together on the table. The foods are to be eaten in several servings in a special order where the diners help themselves taking their pick from the variety of dishes displayed. Smorgasbord is known and served in all the Nordic countries with each country adding it's special delicacies to the table. In Denmark it is known as Koldtbord, seisova poyta, noutopoyta or voiliepapoyta in Finland, koltbord in Norway and koltbord or hlaoboro in Iceland. The smorgasbord tradition arose out of the "aquavit buffet" or "vodkatable" in the 1700's. It began at social evenings in Sweden. Traveling in those days sometimes involved a long and tiresome ride by horse or coach to get from place to place. Because of that, after arriving at a social event, the women retired to socialize and recover from the journey to the host's home. The men, however, moved on to the "brannsvinsbord"( table of spirits), a table set up to drink brannsvin (burnt wine) - which included all distilled spirits but, especially, vodka and a variety of clear spirits called "aquavits", flavored with things, such as, caraway, lemon, anise, wormwood, etc. (In the early day, aquavits were of low quality, with many impurities, thus, the flavorings were added to the spirits to make them palatable. Current aquavits are of high quality and are called "vodkas". However, the traditional flavorings are still favored.) At the brannsvinsbord, small snacks - bread, butter, cheese, pickled Sprats (little fish), herring, etc. - were offered, as well. As time progressed, this tradition became a competitive one; each host trying to outdo each other with what foods could be presented at their "brannsvinsbord" buffet. As the number of food dishes increased, the buffet offerings became so large that the "brannsvinsbord' became transformed into a buffet which served as a full meal. In the 19th century, this emerged as the "smorgasbord" buffet, served to travelers at train stations and in hotel restaurants and from there, it spread to become nationally and internationally known. Now, according to the Stockholm Restaurant Academy, a proper smorgasbord must have 12 preparations of herring, gravlax (cured, unsmoked salmon), plus other smoked and fresh salmon dishes followed by smoked and cured meats, hot dishes and desserts. With all these foods expected for this one meal and the high costs of the ingredients and the time involved in their preparation, it is hard to find a "true" smorgasbord in most countries now and, even in Sweden, only a handful remain. One more tradition passing into history. A pity!

FOOD TRIVIA: Eradication of Scurvy

British ships took sauerkraut on voyages to prevent scurvy ( cabbage contains vitamin C - a scurvy preventing vitamin) because of its ability to keep well without refrigeration. The explorer James Cook, 1723-1779, promoted the practice of feeding his crew sauerkraut and lime juice to prevent this disease even though Vitamin C would not be discovered until 1932 and its relationship to the prevention of scurvy was established.

FOOD HISTORY: Peameal Bacon: The The Real Canadian Bacon

 Americans who love Eggs Benedict know that it consists of smoked, ham-like slices of "Canadian" bacon on a toasted English muffin  topped with poached eggs and covered with Hollandaise sauce. Real Canadian bacon is quite different from what Americans call "Canadian" bacon. While both are cured, the American "Canadian" bacon is smoked, as well, giving it a flavor close to ham. The non-smoked Canadian bacon has a light, salty flavor, without the smokiness, so it tastes more like fresh ham or pork loin. In fact, in Canada, their version of "Canadian" bacon is not even called "Canadian" bacon; it is called "Peameal" bacon. The Canadian bacon story starts in Wilts County, in SW England where the practice emerged of submerging boneless pork loins  in a brown sugar, salt brine until it was cured. This enhanced "shelf  life". In 1854, William Davies, of  Wallingford, England, emigrated to Toronto, Canada, where he set up a shop in the St. Lawrence Market selling pork products including  this type of cured pork. His products were greeted with such enthusiasm, that he founded the William Davies Company. His company became the largest pork packer and shipper in the British Empire and Toronto became known as "Hogtown". In those days before refrigeration, the pork was shipped after being brined cured, which helped in the preservation of the pork loins. In addition, they were rolled in ground, dried yellow peas (peameal)  to preserve the meat even further. Thus, "Peameal" bacon was born.  At the turn of the 19th century, England experienced a great pork shortage and began importing large quantities of pork products, including Peameal bacon  from Canada. The British, then, smoked the Peameal bacon (pork loins). Americans tasting the smoked British version, assumed that all bacon from Canada was smoked. When they brought this idea home with them, they called the smoked version, "Canadian Bacon". Thus, arose the confusion between real Canadian  (unsmoked Peameal Bacon) and the American  smoked, "Canadian" bacon.  This continues today. While, in Canada, the dried, ground, yellow pea coating of Canadian Peameal  bacon has been replaced by the use of yellow cornmeal (cheaper), Canadians still refer to their bacon as "Peameal Bacon" and it is as popular as ever. In Canada it is used more for sandwiches, as a loin roast, with eggs, in pasta or in any dish were a cured, non- smoked piece of pork loin would do, rather than for Eggs Benedict. However, it certainly may be used for that purpose, as well.

THINGS I LIKE: Roasted Grape Tomato/ Broccoli Rabe/italian Sausage Pasta Sauce

I have always liked grape tomatoes (they are what I eat when tomatoes are out-of -season) and broccoli rabe as a vegetable. Both of these go well with Italian sausage so I put them all together into a recipe for a sauce for pasta. I roast the grape tomatoes to concentrate their flavor. This is done by placing the tomatoes on a sheet pan, coating them with extra virgin olive oil and placing the in a 400F oven for 30 - 50 minutes (depending on your oven) until the tomatoes are shriveled and some juice has come out of them. Some may have a little "char" on them  which is good because it gives a slight smoky flavor to the tomatoes. I  "blanch" the broccoli rabe before use, ie, place in boiling, salted water for 30 seconds, remove quickly and plunge into ice water to stop the cooking and drain. This leaves the broccoli rabe slightly cooked but retains it's bright green color. It finishes cooking when added to the other sauce ingredients. These two steps can be done while preparing the sauce for use right away or, after being allowed to cool,  may be placed in plastic refrigerator bags and frozen for later use. I have frozen these ingredients for several weeks with no negative effect on the  outcome of the sauce. With these comments as prolog the recipe follows:

INGREDIENTS

3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
8 oz sweet Italian sausage meat*
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch broccoli rabe, blanched (see above)
4 pints grape tomatoes, roasted (see above)
1 tbsp. tomato paste**
1 tbsp. fennel seeds, toasted until fragrant. be careful not to burn.
TT  salt and freshly ground black pepper
red pepper flakes - optional
1 pound of tubular pasta; ziti, rigatoni, etc.

PREPARATION 

Cook the pasta in a large volume of boiling, salted water until a minute or two before it reaches the "al dente" stage.

While pasta is cooking prepare sauce.

Heat pan to medium and add olive oil and garlic. cook for a few moments and add sausage meat. When browned, move meat to sides of pan. Add a little more olive oil to the center of the pan, stir in fennel seed, add tomato paste and  cook a  minute or two in the oil, until the paste takes on a rust -like color. Mix in the sausage, then add the roasted tomatoes and broccoli rabe. When sauce is hot, drain pasta ( saving some of the cooking water) and add pasta to the pan. Cook a few more minutes until the pasta has absorbed some of the sauce, is properly cooked and is heated through. If sauce needs thinning, add small amounts of pasta water until sauce is at proper consistency.

Place on a heated platter and serve.

*Grind your own from pork butt or use, either, market made ground sausage or sausage removed from their casings.

**I use a tube of double concentrated tomato paste - Amore brand. It is very convenient, you can use as much as you need and the rest will keep in the refrigerator a long period of time for future use.