FOOD HISTORY: CULINARY INFLUENCES ON CUBA

As with many others of the islands in the Caribbean, the Taino people were the indigenous population of Cuba, having moved from South America thousands of years ago, In Cuba, they lived in communities where they raised crops of yucca, sweet potatoes, maize, and other crops. Their culture flourished, reaching a peak by the time they became colonized by the Spanish in 1511.

The Spanish wanted to use the warm climate of the island to initiate plantations to grow sugar cane - a very valuable cash crop. Early interactions with the indigenous Taino population went very well with many marriages between the Spanish and Taino women, combining new and old-world genes, to create a “mestizo” (Creole) population throughout the island, which still exists today. Because of this, the culinary traditions of both cultures became combined.

 After living together in peace for some time, the Spanish removed the Taino men and forced then to work on the sugar plantations. Additionally, over time, both many Taino men and women died from diseases they had never seen before, brought to the island by the Spanish. This severely reduced the plantations Taino workforce. Because of this, the Spanish needed replacement workers

 In the 16^th century, with the Slave trade flourishing, enslaved Africans began to be used to work the sugar plantations by the Spanish, replacing the few Taino workers remaining. The enslaved Africans brought their own cooking methods and techniques with them, adding another layer of food diversity to the combined Taino/Spanish culinary traditions.

When slavery was abolished in Cuba in 1886, Chinese workers were brought to Cuba to replace the freed Africans. The Chinese, also, brought their own cooking traditions with them. For example, the Cubans in Havana’s Chinatown watched the Chinese laborers cooking on a makeshift wooden box (La Caya) on which a fire burned, heating the top of the box and slow cooking the food inside. The Cubans adopted this method to cook Lechon Asado (slow cooked pork) making it soft and tender and introduced this cooking method as a prerequisite for their  famous Lechon Asado prepared for  Cuban festivals.

Thus, Cuba's culinary history includes contributions from the indigenous Taino’s, the Spanish, the enslaved Africans and, finally, the Chinese. One can still find Cuban/Chinese restaurants in Havana and even some in the eastern United States.

The evolution of ethnic cooking methods from many places in the world has been associated with some very negative historical events. However, if we can look at them only from the point of view of the EVOLUTION OF OUR EATING PLEASURE, we can all be very happy with the results.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 FOOD TRIVIA: Origin of Food Names

Food Name               Language of Origin                  Meaning in Original  Language

tapioca                               Brazilian                            "to squeeze out the dregs"

vermicelli                           Italian                                        "little worms"

phyllo                                 Greek                                              leaf

porcini                               Italian                                         "little pigs"

avocado                         Aztec (abucatl)                                 testicle                                   

lasagna                     ancient Greek (lasanon)                   "chamber pot"

                          adapted by Roman  (lasanum)          "large cooking- pot"

succotash      Narraganset Indian (msickquatash)   "boiled whole kernels of corn"

                                        

         

 COOKING TIP: Dry Aged Steak at Home

Some time ago, I wrote a blog* post describing how one could prepare a steak at home with taste as close as possible to the taste of a dry aged restaurant steak (Dry-Aged Steak at Home (8/2/11). In a more recent (2/27/13) post, I described the history of UMAMI, the FIFTH TASTE. The new taste, UMAMI, is described "savory "meaty" or "delicious". Previously, it was thought that there were only four basic tastes: sweet, sour, bitter and salty. In addition, I listed some of the ways in which the UMAMI taste could be added to food. Recently, I came across a description of how to prepare dry-aged steak at home which uses the method I described previously (post of 8/2/11) plus a way of adding additional UMAMI taste to the steak. (Nathan Myhrvold, Food and Wine magazine Oct 12, 2012, pg. 38.) While the recipe calls for rib-eye steak, any steak of equal size could be substituted. The preparation requires six days to complete so much so plan, appropriately, for when you want the steaks to be ready for eating - the planning and wait will be well worth it.

*thefoodiescompanion.blogspot.com

The recipe is as follows:

INGREDIENTS

Two 12 oz., one-inch-thick, boneless, rib eye steaks

1 1/2 Tbsp Asian fish sauce

Kosher salt and pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS

1) Place steaks in a single layer in a sealable plastic bag.

2) Add fish sauce and turn to coat. Press out as much air from the bag as possible, seal and refrigerate for three days.

3) Remove steaks from bag. Tightly wrap each one in a double layer of cheesecloth, place on a rack over a plate and refrigerate, uncovered, for three more days.

4) Unwrap steaks, discard cheese cloth and allow the steak to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Add salt and pepper and grill to the doneness you prefer (I prefer medium-rare - -120F - on a meat thermometer) and allow 10 min resting time before serving  the steak

COOKING TIP: SAUCES AND SOUP 

PAN SAUCES: The base of a pan sauce is the “FOND”, the flavorful brown bits clinging to the bottom of a skillet after sautéing or searing meat. After discarding excess fat and removing the meat from the skillet, aromatics, such as minced shallot, onion, garlic, etc. can be sautéed. Then, in a process called DEGLAZING, liquid - homemade stock, canned broth, wine, water etc. - is added and the FOND is scraped up. The liquid is simmered to reduce the volume by 1/2 - 2/3, to concentrate the flavors. Any juices released from the meat that was cooked in the skillet are added back to the sauce. If desired, the reduction may be thickened further by whatever means you choose. Add herbs and/or spices and whisk in cold butter, small amounts at a time, while swirling the skillet until it is melted and incorporated into the sauce. The butter adds richness and body to the sauce.

To SEPARATE FAT from soup and other cooking liquids, remove chunky items. Place the slightly cooled remaining liquid in a sealable plastic bag and allow the fat to rise to the top of the liquid. Snip a small hole in the bottom  corner of the bag and drain the liquid into another container, pinching the bag closed before the fat flows out.  

CORNSTARCH can be used to thicken soups and sauces by dissolving them in a small amount of cold liquid, to prevent lumps, before being added. This is called a” slurry”. This method of thickening can be used substituting all-purpose flour, arrowroot, or potato starch, as well.

VEGETABLE or BEAN SOUPS can be thickened by pureeing some of the soup. and adding it back to the rest of the soup. Bread can be used to thicken watery soup, also. Soak several pieces of crusty bread in some of the broth, puree it in a food processor and add back to soup. The soup will thicken after itis brought to a boil.

PARMESAN CHEESE RINDS should be kept and frozen to be added to soups, stews, or chili to enhance flavor.

Keep GRAVY WARM by putting it into an insulated coffee carafe until needed.

FOOD HISTORY:  JUNETEENTH, "RED DRANK" AND AFRICAN/AMERICAN CULTURE  

Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation on Jan,1 1863, ordering all slaves to be  freed.but it wasn't until Dec.1865 that the Thirteenth Amendment abolished slavery in the whole United    States. Because the Union army of 1863 didn't have enough men to ensure that all slaves were free in all the southern states, many African Americans remained enslaved. It wasn't until two years later, in 1 865, that they army had strength enough to enforce the Emancipation Proclamation in all the Confederate states, including Texas, the most distant Confederate state,  This occurred, finally, for  the last of two hundred thousand enslaved persons still in Texas, when General Grainger arrived in  Galveston, on June 19th (JUNETEENTH)) and read "General Order #13", informing them of their freedom. Because Texas had been one of the last states to participate in the slave trade, many Africans who came through Galveston were from both Africa and via the Caribbean, which in the later years, were mainly the Yoruba peoples from Nigeria, Benin, and Togo and the Konga peoples from Angola, Democratic Republic of Congo, Republic of Congo and Gabon. When they came, they brought with them and maintained many of their traditional African heritage. They celebrated their freedom by buying land across Texas, established Emancipation parks in Houston and Austin and the Booker T. Washington park in Meria, TX. They celebrated further, by embracing the colors of Africa - black, green and red - the colors of the Pan -African flag. Further, they celebrated by drinking, Red Drank" a red colored drink, long enjoyed in social gatherings in many regions of West Africa and by peoples of African descent in America. The type of "Red Drank” varied, whether a red "tea" flavored with Hibiscus flowers or Kola nut, both indigenous to West Africa, a fruity red soda, made using watermelon or strawberries or, even later, red Kool-Aid. . The only constant for the drink was its red color - symbolizing the blood shed by their formerly enslaved ancestors. Because of this, any kind off "Red Drank" is associated with and drank, at Juneteenth festivities. Other red colored foods were added to the tradition later; Red Velvet cake  and red rice and, even later, red Kool-Aid..

 

Recipe for Watermelon "Red Drank"

6 C watermelon pieces

3/4 C granulated sugar

1/4 C water

3 C sparkling water, plain or lemon-flavored soda

Blend all ingredients, except sparkling water o lemon flavored soda and pour through a fine sieve to remove any seed particles.

Combine watermelon mixture with sparkling water or soda. 

Serve with ice. 

FOOD TRIVIA: Cake, Crackers, Biscuit and Cookies

The expressions, "Cake Walk", "A piece of cake" and "Takes the cake" probably derive from the 19th century African - American competitions where couples who strutted most gracefully and stylishly were awarded a cake as a prize.

Many cakes and sweet treats that are popular and frequently served are round or ball like, symbolizing the circle of life. Italians eat honey coated, powdered sugar sprinkled balls of pasta dough called chiacchiere, while doughnuts are eaten in Poland, Hungary, and The Netherlands. The Dutch eat doughnut type pastries filled with apples, currents and raisins, as well. Other cultures put a trinket or coin in their cake and the one who gets the trinket containing slice, has a year’s good luck. Mexico and Greece are examples of this tradition but in Sweden and Norway the trinket/ coin is replaced by an almond and the cake by rice pudding. 

In 1998, The Sacher Hotel in Vienna baked a version of their world-famous cake, The Sacher Torte, which measured  2.5 meters (8m feet, 2.4 inches); a Guinness world record.

 The tiered wedding cake was inspired by St. Bride's Church, in London, England, because of its tiered spire

Most crackers are full of holes, not for appearance but to release steam in the wet dough, which would create bubbles to break them, while they bake. The holes keep them flat, dry and crunchy.

In Australia, the Anzac Biscuit, an army biscuit, is sold each year when the country celebrates Anzac (Australia/New Zealand)  Day. During WW I, the recipe was used to make biscuits for the  Anzac  soldiers serving in Europe. It took two months for them to get there by sea. They arrived in Gallipoli on April 25, 1915.

Fortune cookies offered by most Chinese restaurants in America, are not found in China. They were invented in 1916 by George Jung, a noodle maker in Los Angeles.

Italian cookies are usually dry and not very sweet because they are meant to be dipped into coffee or wine to enhance the enjoyment of each drink. Also, their dry consistency prolonged their shelf life before refrigeration became available. 

In 1918, several baking companies formed the National Biscuit Company (NABISCO) on 15 - 16 St along 9th Ave, in NYC. The Oreo cookie was born there. Now, 15 -16 St along 9th Ave is officially known as  “Oreo Way”.                         

Many centuries ago, bakers in Scotland classified shortbread as bread to avoid the tax that was placed on biscuits (cookies), at that time.

 COOKING TIP: Debunking Food Myths

POTATO added to a TOO SALTY SOUP or STEW will NOT make the soup or stew less salty. This is a popular, but incorrect, piece of kitchen lore.

SEARING MEAT, despite popular thought, DOES NOT seal in thejuices. It does, however, caramelize juices on the outside of the meat, which makes it taste better and gives a delicious crust. If searing sealed the surface of the meat, the inside juices would reach the boiling point, boil and would “burst” through the sealed crust. This does not happen because the surface of meat is porous, allowing moisture to escape, whether the meat surface is seared or not.

WASHING MUSHROOMS: Contrary to popular belief, mushrooms CAN be washed to remove sand and dirt before they are used. A quick wash just before use will provide clean mushrooms for your recipe. 

NEVER PUT BANANAS IN THE REFRIGERATOR? NOT TRUE! If you have extra bananas that you are afraid that you can’t use before they get all brown and overripe, wrap each one tightly, in plastic wrap and refrigerate. While the skin may get some brown spotting, the flesh will darken a little but the flesh will, essentially, remain in the state it was when the fruit was put into the refrigerator for, at least, eight days (I have done this) and, perhaps, even two weeks.

ADDING BUTTER TO OIL improves flavor but it DOES NOT, as is commonly believed, increase the smoking point of the butter.

Contrary to what is claimed by many food writers, BAMBOO SKEWERS soaked in water before use burn just as quickly as those used dry.

DON'T SALT BEANS BEFORE COOKING. WRONG! Beans soaked in room temperature, salted water (3 Tbsp salt/ 4 quarts water) for 8-24 hours, when drained, rinsed and cooked by slow simmering will be creamy and have tender skins.

STRONG, SHARP FLAVORED LEAFY GREENS - collard, mustard, turnip and dandelion - should only be boiled quickly in NON - SALTED water since steaming or cooking with salt will increase the bitter flavor of these greens. Salt, to taste, after cooking.