Thursday, July 5, 2012

FOOD HISTORY: Crumpets and English Muffins

Crumpets are an Anglo-Saxon invention. Initially, they were hard pancakes baked on a griddle.  The term  has Celtic origins and dates from the 1600's and is related to the Breton "kranpoez" ( a thin, flat pancake) or the Welch type of pancake called, 'crempog". The 1649 Oxford dictionary referring  to "crumpet", describes it as a mixture of buckwheat flour, beaten egg, milk and baking powder. These were different from the more familiar crumpets of the Victorian Era when yeast was added to the dough and the crumpet was baked in a ring mold to hold the batter while it baked. Crumpet makers of the British Midlands and London developed the characteristic holes which appear on top of the crumpet when it is cooked the by adding extra baking powder to the dough. Thus,the more familiar soft, spongy crumpet of the Victorian Age, with their characteristic holes on their top to "hold" butter and other popular toppings, evolved..

The British "muffin", which was  originally made from left over bread and biscuit dough scraps and mashed potatoes, which the cook fried on a hot griddle to produce a light, crusty muffin, were eaten by the "downstairs" servants in England's Victorian society .When the "upstairs" family learned about these tasty morsels, they began to request them, especially for their afternoon teatime snack. Because of this, these muffins became the most "fancied" bread in England and muffin factories, each with their own recipe for making their  muffin, sprung up all over. These muffins could be split and toasted over an open fire and served with various toppings. They became so popular that "Hawkers" sold them on the streets of London and the song , "Do you know the Muffin Man" became a big hit.

The MODERN English muffin is, in fact, an American invention created by Samuel Bath Thomas, a 1874 immigrant to New York City from Plymouth, England. Thomas, who worked in a bread bakery, opened his own bakery in 1880. It was in this location that he created a "toaster crumpet"; a flatter version of the English crumpet which did not contain baking powder used to create holes as in the traditional crumpet. However,Thomas' secret process did retain the "holes" that crumpets have on their outside to trap butter and other toppings  but the Thomas English muffin's "holes"( his, "nooks and crannies") are on the inside of the muffin. "Fork splitting" his muffins before toasting retained this "crumpet"characteristic.Thomas English muffins became very popular in the U.S.and their popularity spread to the world wide market even introducing "English" muffins to the British.

3 comments:

  1. This article is great :) I have a project for school about British cuisine :)

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    1. Thanks for your comment. I have up coming blog posts about Pimm's Cup, a popular British alcoholic beverage, and the History of British Afternoon Tea. I would be willing to e-mail you these posts prior to them being published on my blog, if that would help you on your school project. You can request them by e-mailing me at iaholder@juno.com. Whether you want to use them or not, good luck with your project.

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  2. I'm curious about your sources. To my knowledge, saleratus, baking soda, and later, baking powder as we know it, were mid-19th century innovations. However, your opening paragraph includes baking powder in a reference dated 1649. I was under the impression that hartshorn, and possibly potash and pearlash, were the commonly used chemical leavenings used until late in the 17th century, so I was surprised to see the term 'baking powder' with such an early date! Did the Oxford dictionary specifically use the term "baking powder"? I'm interested in the terminology, since the chemistry doesn't seem to match up with the discovery of bicarbonates and their uses in cooking.

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