Tuesday, October 4, 2016
FOOD HISTORY: Sweetened Fried Dough
Dough, fried,
sweetened and used as food, has been enjoyed for many, many centuries. However,
it took two independent, historical events to make this possible. The first was
the invention of clay pottery. Before clay pots were invented, cooking was done
only by roasting food over hot coals. The second development was the Chinese
discovery, in 8000 - 5500 BC, of the stone grinder which allowed grain to be
pulverized into a fine flour that could be made into a dough. The dough could
be baked or fried in a clay pot filled with oil. In the 2nd century BC, the
Roman writer, Cato, described a dish called Scriblita, which consisted of moist
dough spooned into hot fat and allowed to steam into random shapes. This may
have been the precursor to both fritters and doughnuts. A 15th century cooking
book - Harliean manuscript of 1430 - described a yeast batter using egg whites
which were run down the fingers of the cook into hot fat where they
"set" into tangles. When cooked, they were served sprinkled with
sugar. It is believed that the art of deep frying came from China to Japan in
the 7th - 8th century. However, cooking oil was very expensive so the only
places that served deep - fried food were in Buddist temples. It was only in
the 17th - 18th centuries, that vegetable oil was
produced in enough quantity in Japan to be readily available to all people. It
was then that the Portugese, who had been trading with Japan from their colony
in Macao since 1549, introduced the method of deep frying food to the Japanese.
Tempura, the famous Japanese dish of fried seafood and vegetables was a dish
adapted from the early Portugese traders in Japan. Further, in 1878, Portugese
workers were solicited in Hawaii. The Portugese always influenced the cuisines
of the new countries where they worked, settled or traded. In the case of
Hawaii, the Portugese workers brought recipes for their fried dough dish,
"Malassadas" with them where they became a standard dish still eaten
in Hawaii. (In Hawaii they are spelled with only one "s" - Malasadas
). The same was true when Portugese people settled on the East coast of the
United States where "Malassadas", known as "Flippers" in
Cape Cod, Massacuchetts, are eaten today. Thus, trade and immigration certainly
were one of the means by which the knowledge of recipes for sweetened, fried
dough dishes were transported around the world. An additional possibility for
the development of these treats arising world - wide is that they developed independently
in different countries using the taste preferences of each country. Be that as it may, sweetened fried dough
dishes are known, eaten and enjoyed the world over. There are probably few
countries that do not have a fried dough dish, plain or
filled, sweetened with sugar (sometimes other spices), sugar syrup or
honey. Some of the more well - known
ones are: Malassadas; Portugal, Hawaii, east coast of US; Bienets - France; Churros
- Spain/Mexico; Fritters - world - wide; Loukoumades - Greece; Zeppole - Italy;
Oliebollen - Netherlands; Lokma - Turkey; donuts - US/ world - wide; Bamieh -
Iran
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