Sunday, February 15, 2026

FOOD HISTORY: MAC AND CHEESE IN AMERICA

 FOOD HISTORY: MAC AND CHEESE IN AMERICA

There is no food more associated with America than apple pie but you probably don't know how and why mac and cheese became one of the most  popular and singularly American dish. While mac and cheese dishes were known as far back as 160 BC, in the Roman Republic, mac and cheese were first served in the United States at presidential dinners hosted by President Thomas Jefferson. Jefferson had served as American ambassador to both France and Italy. He was accompanied by his enslaved servant, James Hemmings, brother of Sally Hemmings, his enslaved mistress with whom he fathered several children. When he was in Italy Jefferson  was so taken by the macaroni dishes with cheese he was served,  that he bought a pasta making machine and Durum wheat for making macaroni, to bring back to the the United States on his return. When in France, his slave, Hemmings, curiously, was a "free" man, since France had already abolished slavery. Therefore, during their time in France, Jefferson allowed Hemmings to be trained as a French Chef. Upon returning to the United States and becoming president, Jefferson wanted to serve a macaroni and cheese to his guests at presidential dinners. Of course no member of the Jefferson family would ever get into the kitchen to cook. Therefore, it was James  Hemmings who developed and prepared the first American  mac and cheese dish called, 'Pie and Macaroni" that was served at presidential dinners. In 1874, the first American cookbook, "The Virginian Housewife", written by Mary Randolph, a White House cook is where Hemmings was finally given the credit for its development and the recipe presented.  Mac and cheese gained popularity  throughout the United States after that, and mac and cheese became a quintessential American dish. While Jefferson is given credit  for this, the fact is, that  the credit  really belongs to James Hemmings.,

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